Shubako

For an unhurried evening drink, Sakabako is down a flight of stairs in Sugamo. The compact interior has around eight counter seats as well as booth seating; music plays in the background, adding to the relaxed atmosphere.

A good place to start is Sakabako’s lemon sour, a house favourite that has won over regulars. The drink is made so you can enjoy the lemon peel, too, and is known as a refreshing choice. The sake selection is also a highlight, handwritten on display and changing daily. Bottles from around Japan have included 石川 吉田蔵 U, 秋田 福小町 純米吟醸 and 群馬 谷川岳 純米生原酒.

The small plates vary from day to day, with thoughtful dishes such as horse mackerel tataki, octopus and grated yam dressed with seaweed, and stir-fried beef tendon with paprika sauce. The dishes are delicately seasoned and served in small portions, making it easy to drop in alone for a drink or settle in for another round after dinner.

Sakabako is open until 2 a.m. and accepts PayPay. For an evening in Sugamo, settle in over a distinctive sake and a well-considered plate or two.